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expand/collapse navigation home forum contact us legal notice home forum contact us legal notice leaking taps leaking taps leaking taps,the diy way to fixing leaking taps and dripping taps how to fix leaking taps and dripping taps (by a london plumber) repairing a dripping tap a dripping tap or leaking tap usually means that the tap washer needs renewing, but it can also be caused by a damaged valve seating. if the drip is from a mixer nozzle, then change both tap washers. removing the headgear 1 turn off the water supply to the taps *. make sure the tap is turned fully on, and put the plug into the plughole to stop any small parts falling down the waste pipe. this is an important tip and can save you a lot of time and aggravation later on. *turn off the water under the taps at the service valves or at the mains. 2 unscrew or lever off the cover of a non-rising spindle tap to expose the retaining screw (use a flat head screwdriver). remove the screw and put it in a safe place. remove the head of the tap. alternatively with a rising spindle tap, prise off the index disc (in the centre of the handle) (again with a screwdriver) and remove the retaining screw to release the capstan (handle). use an adjustable spanner wrapped in some rag or cloth to unscrew the metal shroud and lift it from the headgear nut. 3 undo the larger headgear nut with a spanner. do not force the nut. if it is stiff, brace the tap body by hand or with a pipe wrench wrapped in a cloth, to prevent the tap from turning and fracturing or damaging the pipework attached to it. if you damage the pipe at this point it could cause a leak and you would need to call a plumber. 4 if the nut is still difficult to turn, apply penetrating oil round the joint, wait for about 10 minutes to give it time to soak in, then try again. you may have to make several applications. it is also possible to apply heat to it with and electric paint stripper or blow torch but be very careful. replacing the washer 5 prise off the washer with a screwdriver. if there is a small nut holding it in place, unscrew it with a spanner (normally 8mm). if it is difficult to undo, put penetrating oil round it and try again when is has soaked in. then prise off the washer. alternatively if the nut proves to difficult to remove, then you can replace both the jumper valve and washer in one unit. 6 after fitting a new washer or washer and jumper valve, grease the threads on the base of the tap before reassembling. it is possible to get a special silicone gel from the plumbers merchants, but something like vaseline would do. repairing the valve seating when renewing a washer, have a look at the valve seat inside the tap body. if it is rough or scored, possibly by grit, the seal between the washer and seat will not be effective even with a new washer and will let water by. the easiest repair is with a combine washer and seating set, available at hardware stores.this has a plastic seat part, which fits into the valve seat, and a washer and jumper valve unit will fit into the headgear. when the tap is turned off, the plastic seating is forced firmly into position. it may take a few days of using the tap for the new seating to give a completely watertight seal. an alternative repair to the valve seat is to buy or hire a tap reseating tool and grind the seat smooth yourself. ceramic disc taps ceramic disc taps operate in a different way from conventional taps that have washers and main spindles. they have a cartridge in the body of the tap containing a pair of ceramic discs, each one with two holes in it. one disc is fixed in position; the other rotates when the handle is turned. as the movable disc rotates, the holes in it line up with the holes in the fixed one and water flows through them. when the tap is turned off the movable disc rotates so that the holes no longer align. a scratched ceramic disc can cause a dripping or leaking tap, the entire cartridge must be replaced; remember, left-handed for a hot tap or right-handed for a cold tap. remove the damaged cartridge and take it with you when buying a replacement to make sure it is the correct size and left or right hand. ceramic taps can also drip at the base of the cartridge if the seal has perished. checking the ceramic discs 1 turn off the water supply. pull off the tap handles (it may be necessary to unscrew a small retaining screw on each) and use a spanner to unscrew the headgear section. 2 carefully remove the ceramic cartridges, remembering which is hot and which cold. check both cartridges for dirt and damage. 3 if the cartridges are worn, replace with identical parts for the tap unit. make sure the hot and cold cartridges are fitted into the correct taps. 4 if the cartridges are dirty, clean them with a damp cloth. replace the rubber seal, if it is worn. replace the cartridge in the tap unit, fitting the hot and cold cartridges into the appropriate taps. curing a leak a leaking tap, where the leak is from the body of the tap – from round the spindle, the base of a swivel spout, or the diverter lever on a shower mixer tap – may indicate a faulty glands (seal between the body of the tap and the spindle) or o-ring seal. possible causes. this type of leak is most likely to occur in a kitchen cold tap with a bell-shaped cover and visible spindle. soapy water from wet hands may have run down the spindle and washed the grease out of the gland that makes a watertight joint round the spindle. if the tap is used with a garden hose, back pressure from the hose connection will also weaken the gland. on a modern tap, especially one with a shrouded head, there is an o-ring seal instead of a gland, and it is not often that this needs replacing. o-ring seals on the other hand may sometimes become worn, adjusting the gland it is not necessary to cut off the water supply. 1 with the tap turned off, undo the small screw that secures the capstan handle and put it in a safe place (it is very easily lost), then remove the handle. if there is no screw, the handle should just pull off.. 2 remove the bell-shaped cover of the whole tap to reveal the gland nut – the highest nut on the spindle. tighten the nut about half a turn with a spanner. you can use wood blocks (cloths pegs) for this. 3 turn the tap on by temporarily slipping the handle back on, then check whether there is still a leak from the spindle. if there is not, turn the gland nut another quarter turn and reassemble the tap. do not over tighten the gland nut, or this will make the tap hard to turn off. 4 if there is still a leak, give another half turn and check again. 5 if the gland continues leaking after you have adjusted it as far as possible, then you will need to repack the gland. replacing the packing 1 with the tap turned off and the handle and cover removed as above, use a spanner to remove the gland nut and take it out. 2 pluck out the old packing with a sharp implement or small screwdriver. replace it with packing string from a plumber’s merchant or with ptfe tape stretched into a thin string. pack it in with a screwdriver, replace the gland nut and reassemble the tap, and turn on to test. tools one large open-ended spanner, normally 20mm for a 12mm tap or 24mm for a 19mm tap (or use an adjustable spanner); old screwdriver (for prising). possibly also one small spanner (normally 8mm); one or two pipe wrenches; cloth for padding jaws; one 5mm, one 10mm screwdriver. materials replacement washer or a washer-and-jumper valve unit; alternatively, a washer-and-seating set; petroleum jelly. possibly also penetrating oil. packaging materials (gland-packing string or ptfe tape). possibly also silicone grease; o-rings (and possibly washers) of the correct size – take the old ones with you when buying, or give the make of the tap. summary. it is very possible with a little time and the correct tools for almost anyone to repair leaking taps and dripping taps. just follow the stages above. good luck........... please see below for s

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